The "Windwalker"

The Daily Log -- September, 2005 -- Ireland to Portugal
Date -
Position
Heading
Made Good
Daily Log Comments
Thur, Sept 1
52:34N, 9:51W
Anchored
51:56N, 10:19W
Shannon Estuary
to
Dingle Bay
45nm
0600, W force 2, part cloudy, low 60s. Slept well with a full belly from 2030 t0 0600. The areas I saw yesterday and today are barren and rocky, with nary a tree, like most of Ireland that I have seen and not very green, except some of the tilled plots. The hilltops are badly over grazed. I see villages of 30 cottages and a like number of 3-5 acre plots, how do they make a living?? Breakfast and up anchor as the sun came up at 0700. If the dinghy wasn't such a pain to assemble, I would like to go ashore and meet the "country" folks. Motored all day into head winds, Force 3-4-5-6 making 5-4-3-2 knots respectively, seas 5-15 feet, the Windwalker pitching up and over them like a demented rocking horse, but with very little splash or spray. As we were leaving the Shannon out to sea, there were two partial rainbows from the sea to the cloud and I immediately thought of Judy and Spyder, two bright lights in my life, and when the cloud passed over and wet on me like a cow on a flat rock, I thanked Judy once again for the oilies. I crossed Dingle Bay and anchored in Valencia Harbor at 1930 in 25 ft of high tide water. The tides here are about 3-5 meters, 10-16 feet. Nice quiet well protected harbor. Made dinner of rice, veggies and tuna, a can of fruit cocktail for desert, then settled in for the night. To cold to stay up to read.
Fri, Sept 2
51:56N, 10:19W
Anchored
51:37N, 10:08W
Valencia Harbor
to
Garnish Bay
35nm
0700, SE force 1, part clear, low 60s. Warmed cabin and washed up. Studied charts and had breakfast. Slow start on the day. Up anchor at 0830, drifted in harbor un while I stowed the anchor and rode. Cleared the harbor at 0845. The sea was near flat. About 1000 the wind came up to force 2 and I motorsailed for a half hour out to the end of Valencia Island. From there to anchoring it was motoring all the way into S & SSE force 3-4 headwinds. The coast guard issued a small craft warning at noon that the winds would build this evening to force 6-7 from the SSE to S, so I came to Garnish Bay on the north side of the south point of the Kenmare River estuary, the only well protected anchorage I could reach before nightfall. I anchored in 25 ft of high tide water. Coming into anchorage the wind was force4 pushing 5. It makes a short day but gives me daylight to clean and order the boat. First thing was to make some coffee, then re-initialize the GPS for Europe so it can find the satellites faster. Then I scrubbed the filthy sooty decks from the tanker diesels and home fires near the harbor in Galway, looks a lot better. Topsides need to be painted. Hung clothes and weather gear. Cleaned at the galley. Heated dinner, made tea, ate and read. Wind piping up to force 5 at 1830, anchorage near flat.
Sat, Sept 3
51:37N, 10:08W
Anchored
51:37N, 10:08W
Garnish Bay
0nm
0700, SSE force 5 gusting 7, overcast, low 60s. Not going anywhere today, the wind shrieking like a banshee in the rigging. Anchorage secure, a little choppy. Back to bed. Mashed what was left of the rice and tuna with a can of cream of chicken soup for lunch. Wind still howling and shrieking. Noon weather forecasts 6 and higher later today and SSE-E Force 3-5 tomorrow decreasing Monday. Finished reading "Sea Lord" again. I dropped the anchor in 25 ft, but it must be near the edge of a drop-off as the depth shows 19 to 45 as the boat swings. I reset the instrument to factory defaults and re-calibrated it just to make sure it too had not gone sour. Updated the fuel usage log, have plenty to motor to Crosshaven if needed, about 95nm into head winds. Charged the cabin battery for an hour. At dusk the wind is down to force 3 from the south with a low cloud overcast. Tea and bed at 2100.
Sun, Sept 4
51:37N, 10:08W
Anchored
51:30N, 9:16W
Garnish Bay
to
Tragumna Bay
60nm
0630, SE force 3 gusting 4, overcast, raining hard, low 60s. Filthy morning, not going anywhere soon today. Switched to port tank. Navigation hazard warnings 0745, two boats capsized but floating, one in Shannon, other off Dursey Head out from me. Put on oilies, pulled the hook at 0915 and cleared the bay at 0930, made it out through the neck of Dursey Sound bound for Mizen Head. Had stew for breakfast and a couple of sandwiches for lunch. Rounded Mizen to the south coast of Ireland at 1330 and passed Fastnet Rock to port at 1445, rounded Cape Clear at 1530 and anchored at 1800 for the night in Tragumna Bay, a little well protected but shallow cove inside Gokane Point with a grassy bottom about 12 ft under the keel. Head winds on the nose all the way today, no chance of sailing. I am about 60 nm from Cork Harbor. Made a cup of coffee, then cleaned the mess in the galley, and on the table. I have to get or make a small hard bottom dinghy so I can get ashore easily. The folding boat just doesn't do the job. Maybe I can trade it in Crosshaven.
Mon, Sept 5
51:30N, o9:16W
Anchored
51:48N, 8:19W
Tragumna Bay
to
Crosshaven, Cork Harbor
67 nm
0630, SE force 1, overcast low 60s. Grounded gently during the night, the bay dried out, more tide than water under the keel. Clothes on, coffee drank, pulled anchor and out of here by 0715. A long rough day, head winds all the way force 3-4, gusting 5, with swells from 3 directions. It was really rough rounding Kinsale Point, getting into a tidal rip with 8 ft steep waves in all directions for about a mile. Entered Cork Harbor at 1845 and anchored a mile into Crosshaven at 1915 in 8 ft of water. I may ground in the mud tonight, but I am too pooped to re-anchor elsewhere and the sun is setting. I will sort it all out tomorrow.
Tue, Sept 6
Anchored
51:48N, 8:19W
Crosshaven, Cork Harbor0615, S wind force 1, clear, low 50s. Touched down during the night. Moved to deeper water at sunup. Assembled dinghy and went ashore to the yacht club and marinas to find the help I need to repair both the autopilots, contact Ruth J., find where I can shower and do laundry and post this on the internet. I need fuel, water, and groceries before I can leave for Porto. I walked miles today. Located a man to repair the autopilots, will know in the morning if they can be repaired. Ruth is on holiday this week. I may be able to contact her tomorrow morning. Got haircut and beard trimmed in Carrigaline. Returned to boat about 1600. Loafed and spit bathed and washed hair to get the loose hair out and off my back where it went inside my collar. Arly, I made a slum-gullion tonight of rice, tomatoes, corn, peppers, onions and spam, enough for 3 meals, real good.
Wed, Sept 7
Anchored
51:48N, 8:19W
Crosshaven, Cork Harbor0630, SW force 1, overcast, 50s. Harbor quiet Ashore at 0800 for groceries, take in laundry, to check with David about the autopilots and to try to contact Ruth J. again. David was able to fix one autopilot, broken connection, 20, the other has burnt out motor, factory repair. Bought 32 groceries, checked on Ruth again, no luck, will try again later this afternoon. Wind is piping up SW force 4, will be bad through Friday up to force 7. I vacuumed dried out the cabin bilges again. Damn but I am getting tired of leaking water tank fittings. Went ashore at 1530 to try Ruth again, nope. Waited at the bus stop for the 1645 bus to Cork. Wandered around Cork and tried to call Ruth a number of times, checked the internet for an email from her and posted to FIR that I was unable to make contact. Found the number of Cork hotline and Paddy came to collect me and got me to the 2030 meeting. Waited for the 2300 Crosshaven bus with Christine and John having tea and chips, a good meeting after the meeting. Dinghied out from the yacht club in pitch dark and aboard at 2345.
Thur, Sept 8
Anchored
51:48N, 8:19W
Crosshaven, Cork Harbor0730, SSW force 1, overcast, 50s. Ashore at 0830 picked up laundry and got a weather forecast, looks good for Saturday morning to leave on the ebb tide. Brought the laundry back to the boat, rolled and stowed it. Back ashore and got a ride to Cork. Internet, lunched and wandered around, 1300 meeting and caught the bus back to Crosshaven at 1620. I tried calling Ruth a half dozen times, no answer, I surrender. Out to the boat at 1715 and read. Back ashore at 1930 in the rain to locate the Croshaven meeting at the Convent. Walked up a steep damn hill one step at a time and was a half hour early. Enjoyed listening to a choir practice waiting. Good meeting although I have a hard time understanding what is said through the Irish brogue, mixing Gaelic expressions and pronunciation with the English. And I am somewhat deaf besides. Back aboard in the rain at 2245. Wind is piping rattling halyards.
Fri, Sept 9
Anchored
51:48N, 8:19W
Crosshaven, Cork Harbor
and
Bound for Leixoes, Portugal
0815, SSW force 1, low overcast, 50s, filthy rainy morning. I felt chilled, so I pulled on extra clothes. I have sufficient supplies to make Portugal. Updated the voyage graphic to show leg to Leixoes and did some programming. About noon I bailed about 20 gallons from the dinghy. The wind and rain didn't let up all morning, but about 1300 the overcast began to thin and they began letting up. At 1400 I pulled the hook, after getting clear of a sunken mooring, went to the fuel dock, and filled the tanks and jerry cans, 118 liters. Put aboard about 40 gallons of water. Bought 2 packs of tobacco. Decided to leave on forecast light winds from east and north tonight. Cleared the fuel dock at 1715 and Cork Harbor at 1730 on a 185° heading. It is good to have Otto back on the helm. I have a ESE wind force 3. motoring with the genoa flying making 6.3 kts as I cleared. Semi-fog, hazy, 1 nm visibility. At 1800 I set course at 200° to make 10°W before the latitude of Finesterre. At 1830 the fog closed in to 1/4 nm and thickening. The fog lifted at 1915. Pleasant evening, porpoise playing at the bows. From GPS at 2000 the tide current is setting us west 17°. Stopped engine at 2045, sailing on genoa at 4 kts and it's raining.
Sat, Sept 10
50:58N, 9:07W
Noon
50:25N, 09:19W
Bound for Leixoes, Portugal
200°
88 nm
0600, NE force 3-4, cloudy, low 60s. 60 miles from Cork, making 5+ kts downwind on genoa. With Otto on the helm I was able to sleep most of the night, waking each hour to lookout. Looks to be a nice day dawning. At 0730 an empty tanker passed astern a mile. 0800 heading 190° for WPT Finesterre at 43N10W. It is 25 nm off the cape. At noon 88 nm from Cork. Wind N force 4, seas 6 ft., Windwalker and Otto handling it very well. At 1715 it started raining and the wind backed 25°. I went on stbd tack on 3/4 genoa. Started engine to charge batteries. We have made 120 nm in the 24 hrs since leaving the fuel dock. At 1830 the wind is force 5 and the seas are causing too much yawing to keep sail on with wind dead astern so I will motor through the night keeping speed about 5 kts. A bulk carrier passed well astern bound for the channel.
Sun, Sept 11
48:51N, 09:40W
Noon
48:23N, 09:47W
Bound for Leixoes, Portugal
190°
125 nm
0600, NNE force 4, solid low overcast, 60s. Engine off, genoa set on port tack, making 6 kts. Uneventful morning. With Otto tending the helm and the wind steady, there is not much to do except lay below, drink coffee, smoke my pipe and read. 0845 the wind backed a little so went on stbd tack, heading 200°. Replaced the slide plastic in the main boom gooseneck car. Rested and had a cuppa while thinking about setting the main. The wind has let down to force 3 and speed is down to 4 kts. With the main set I may be able to get a couple more kts. Setting the main with genoa wing and wing picked up a 1/2 kt. Then the wind died to force 2 but still making 4+ kts. At 1630 low force 3 on stbd tack broad reach heading 215° making 5 kts. At 1730 back to port tack heading 185° making 4 kts in variable wind. 1830 the wind is dying as I cook dinner, will ease on through the night on this tack. Charged batteries 1 hr.
Mon, Sept 12
47:16N, 10:03W
Noon
46:51N, 10:03W
Bound for Leixoes, Portugal
185°
93 nm
0600, NNE force 1, solid high overcast, 60s. Near calm, making 1-2 kts. Slept well 9 hrs in 2 hr pieces, but slightly disoriented this morning. About 0700 the wind picked up a little making 3+ kts. At 0830 an empty container ship crossed my bows a 1/4 nm off. I altered course for 10 minutes to pass well astern. Wind has piped up to force 3 making 5-6 kts. Routine morning, below reading laying down, relaxing, staying dry and warm, up about every 20 minutes to check sail set, heading, speed, and the horizon. The wind died complete at 1400 as we passed into a clear, so I checked engine vitals, seawater filter, oil, bilge, etc. Engine bilge pump hose has a split, needs replacing. Then we motored until 1630 at 5 kts to charge batteries and progress on course. What air there is has veered east force 1.
Tues, Sept 13
45:40N, 10:13W
Noon
45:15N, 10:11W
Bound for Leixoes, Portugal
182°
91 nm
0600, NNE force 1, high cirrus, cloudy ahead. Quiet night. Apparently in a west setting current. Making 3-4 kts. At this rate another 3 days to Leixoes. The wind picked up a little after sunrise and by 0800 were making 4-5 kts. Routine morning. Wind died after noon so motor sailed from 1330 making 5.5 kts. Batteries low. Set pot of beans to soaking. Long high slow swells coming from the WNW, must be a residual of Hurricane Katrina. Otherwise the seas are a foot or less. Clear and sunny all the way around, a little haze on the horizons. Made dinner of rice and onion, peas and tuna, enough for two meals. Engine off at 1730. Making 5-6 kts and occasionally 7 on heading as wind picked up after sundown. The ride is a little choppy as we are on a port beam broad reach.
Wed, Sept 14
43:47N, 10:03W
Noon
43:03N, 10:00W
Bound for Leixoes, Portugal
182°
135 nm
0600, NNE force 3, cloudy, 60s. Unusually good run during the night making 6-7 kts riding the crests at wave speed with little rolling, yawing or pounding, tracking well. Otto is doing one hell of a job at the helm. Well rested. Solid overcast ahead off Finesterre. Cleared. At 0900 force 4 wind making up to 10 kts. Started engine to charge batteries, way low this morning, Lights and Otto used a bunch last night. Running the engine engaged at low rpm is actually slowing us down, giving Otto slightly better control as we schuss and surf off the wave crests. At 0930 a small coastal freighter passed a 1/4 nm astern. I will have to get the shaft log repaired or replaced in Leixoes or as soon as I can find a boat yard that can haul me. The electrolysis pinhole is leaking again. Passed Finesterre WPT at 1230 and turned to heading 157° to Leixoes. Engine off. Port beam reach making 7-8 kts. Started the pot of beans cooking at 1430. Added meat, onions, tomatoes and spices to beans at 1530, smelling good. Wind has let up a little, making 6-7 kts. Big loaded container ship passed well astern bound for Spain or France. Engine 1745-1845 while wind force 2. Great beans.
Thur, Sept 15
41:57N, 09:18W
Noon
41:29N, 08:58W
Bound for Leixoes, Portugal
158°
112 nm
0600, near calm N force 0, clear, 60s. Woke at 0200 to sound of traffic, 3 ships a mile to port. Started engine to make headway and steerage. Altered course to 180° stopped engine, then went back below as a pod of porpoise played around the boat. At sun-up, took down main, back to heading 158°, motor sailing flying genoa with air astern. Switched to stbd fuel tank. Position about 10 nm off the Spanish coast. About 0730 a light NW onshore breeze. I have a fly for company. It is boring as hell reporting these mundane details, but I have nothing else to do. That fly will never land there again. The porpoise are back. I wonder why they do that??? Put up the Portugal courtesy flag about 0930 as I am approaching Portuguese waters. No wind all morning, sea flat. Took a salt water bucket bath w/fresh rinse at 1100 and shaved to be presentable on shore. Wind piped to force 4 just as I made the turn into the Leixoes Harbor entrance. The 950 nm from Cork took 6 1/2 days. Anchored at 1630s as the marina and docks are closed for repair. A youngster, Phil from the next boat, came over to warn me to put out a lot of scope as the bottom is not the best holding. He and I walked into town and I bought Captain Black tobacco, less than half the price in Ireland, and 5 Snickers. Back aboard by 1915.
Fri, Sept 16
41:11N, 08:42W
Leixoes Harbor, Portugal0630, N force 2, fogged in/clearing, 60s. Tidal current ebbing .8 kt, about a 3 meter tide. Ships moving in and out of harbor. Slept sound, only up once. As the sun came up the fog lifted and the sky is mostly clear. Lifted the cabin sole, it is the aft bladder tank leaking again. I will use what is left, then drain and remove it. Last evening I located an internet cafe in town to post this to the web. I need to re-provision, and to check out airfare to England and other costs and details of itinerary to visit Casey. Assembled dinghy. Made rice and cinnamon for breakfast, then went ashore about 1000 and cleared in with customs. Went to shopping center and got 140 in provisions and taxied back to marina, 12. Made a sandwich and coffee and rested a bit before stowing provisions. I have enough potatoes, onions, rice, beans, corned beef, spam and sausage for 2 months. I was unable to get Euro cash from the ATM because of my 8 digit PIN. I need a solution for that problem. I may be able to solve it tomorrow at the airport. Snaggled eyetooth starting to give me fits, will have get it pulled. One damn thing after another. 1900 wind N force 5 gusting 6.
Sat, Sept 17
41:11N, 08:42W
Leixoes Harbor, Portugal0630, near calm, clear, 60s. Eyetooth broke off first thing this morning as I lit my pipe. Assessing things, I have enough fuel to make Foz, Lisbon, or Gibraltar, and food. I need to get bilges dried this morning. I will check if yacht club has internet access, if not I will walk to an internet cafe across the harbor, and also try to find some place to get Euro cash and check the weather for the next few days. Put routes to Foz and Lisbon into the GPS. Relocated the cabin bilge pump and pumped most of the water. Refastened the cabin door with longer screws. Ran engine an hour, then went ashore at 1030. Walked about 3 miles to internet cafe, had a good lunch there and 2 hours on the web for 6.50. An Irishman from Florida, Mike, that I ran into exchanged $65US into 50 for me. Bought 2 sponges on way back, 3. Returned to harbor and stopped to chat with Phil Berriman and Phil, Jr. on the boat next to me, Rich Harvest. Had BBQ beans and pork with them, exchanged computer programs with them, got SeaPro2000 navigation program, gave them Barefoot's World and Netscape 7.0. On board at 1930, tried loading Sea Pro, did something wrong, missing a file?? Ran engine 2 hours while trying to debug. Lights out at 2130.
Sun, Sept 18
41:11N, 08:42W
Leixoes Harbor, Portugal0730, near calm, NE breeze, clear, 60s. Slept in. A beautiful morning. Tried loading SeaPro2000 again, no go. Went to Rich Harvest to get help from Phil Jr. They had a bad night rescuing boats adrift dragging anchor, didn't get to bed until 0700. Returned and spent a few hours cleaning up this computer. Drive has 75% capacity left, 28GB. Lazy day. Vacuumed the bilges AGAIN. I would sure like to fix that leak. Had the last of the pot of beans for lunch, then laid down and read. Afternoon wind force 5 gusting 6. Boat was yawinng to the hook, so when the wind died a bit about 2030 I installed the bridle on the anchor rode to stop the yawing when the wind builds again later tonight and tomorrow. Watched the last of Heidi and the first half of McClintock ...again...while the batteries charged. Going to be clear and cold tonight, already in the 50s.
Mon, Sept 19
41:11N, 08:42W
Leixoes Harbor, Portugal0600, calm, ENE breeze, clear, 50s. Another beautiful morning, but cool. Bailed dinghy, went ashore for a shower, the only part of the marina open. First shower since Danny's when I arrived in Galway. I had almost forgotten how good a shower feels. Returned to get Phil Jr. to help me load SeaPro. He loaded it and I spent an hour studying the tutorial and trying to use the charts. Went ashore at 1145 to internet to get itinerary instructions from Anne, and to the airport to get flight data and some Euros. It looks like I am stuck her until Oct 4. I can get a round trip to London for about 75 if I get a Ryan flight the 29th and return the 3rd or 4th. Sent am email to Anne requesting instructions on itinerary. Was unable to get Euros, near out, must get tomorrow. Evening wind N force 3 gusting 4. A boat from Sheffield, England has anchored up wind from me with only 100 ft of clearance, a bit close. In the sack at 2115.
Tue, Sept 20
41:11N, 08:42W
Leixoes Harbor, Portugal0700, calm, ENE breeze, clear, 50s. Woke to the boat rocking like mad in a cross wake from the pilot boat and ship movement. The boat mentioned above has swung close in the breeze and tide, about 2 feet away, beam to beam. Put the fenders out. They moved and re-anchored at 0900. Ashore at 0945 to internet and banks. Spent 30 on taxi fare to locate a bank to obtain a cash advance, all the way to Porto. Interesting center of town, imposing 19th century structures with all the gingerbread. Got 300. Email from Anne telling me that permission to visit will be a few days yet. so did not book a flight to London. Back to harbor, scrounged a piece of plywood to place under the water bladders so the bilge will dry properly after I invert the bladders and re-seal the fittings in the coming days. Found the number for AA. Called and meeting in Porto at 2100. Would like to find one closer, will try again tomorrow. At sundown the cruise ship "Deutschland" backed past my stern a hundred feet off as it turned to leave the harbor, with the pilot boat between me and it. Four ships have left in the last 2 hours and 1 entered. Watched the last of McClintock and went to bed.`
Wed, Sept 21
41:11N, 08:42W
Leixoes Harbor, Portugal0700, calm, light E breeze, clear, 50s. Harbor like glass. Incoming container ship and pilot boats making wakes. Slow cold morning with heavy fog. Pumped out water tanks saving two jerry cans and the shower bag full. Screwed the fwd storage bins together and ordered the fwd compartment. Cut down the foam cushion I salvaged in Galway to fit the settee. It is thicker, looks neater, and is more comfortable when I rest there between watches. Removed the tanks to dry them and the bilge. I will leave them out for the next few days with the cabin sole up to air the bilges well. Cleaned the sealant from the fittings. It did not set well. Soaking another pot of beans. The fog didn't lift much all day. At 1600 visibility is 200 meters. Had to warn another boat away from anchoring too close. Vacuumed a little bit of water from the amas that leaked past the hatch covers, maybe a gallon, that came aboard between Cork and here. Engine 1730-2030, I ran the batteries way down. Rice and onion and sausage for dinner. Watched the "Alamo." Bed 2130.
Thur, Sept 22
41:11N, 08:42W
Leixoes Harbor, Portugal0745, dead calm, fogged in, 50s. Fog whistles sounded all night. Ashore to the fishing docks in Matosinho at 1000 to check internet for email from Anne. Located a hardware store and lumber yard for silicone sealant and boards to support the bladder tanks, 35. Back about 1300. Spent a couple of hours on Rich Harvest talking with Phil Sr. about Casey. A number of new avenues are presented. Came to boat and shaped the boards to fit the bilges, done by 1830, but a mess of sawdust. Cleaned it up then sat back with my pipe and a cuppa and admired my work. Finished off the skillet of rice and sausage for dinner. Wind has come up force 3 gusting 4. 100 straight wins in FreeCell, I have done as many as 500 a few years back when I was recuperating from a hernia repair. Watched half of Swiss Family Robinson until 2100.
Fri, Sept 23
41:11N, 08:42W
Leixoes Harbor, Portugal0745, dead calm, fogged in, high 50s. Woke at 0500 aching in my bones, took 3 aspirin and went back to bed until 0730. Spent an hour and a half correcting programming of pages and the spreadsheet I sent to Jeff Schone. I have been dumping money into this boat project a year longer than I remembered, since December, 2002. The fog has lifted some, can see 200m. Charged batteries an hour, watching movie used a lot of juice. Had breakfast, then prepared to re-install bladder tanks. The water in the cabin bilge is backflow through the cabin bilge pump when a wave slaps the side of the main hull. I need to get check valves for both pumps. Ashore to see if I could locate some. Got tygon tubing for the pumps, 4 meters, 4 Euros. Back in dense fog. No check valves, so I put a rising loop in the hoses. The engine bilge pump spigot is broken, missing a piece, the reason it was spraying and not pumping well. Will buy a new one tomorrow morning. Engine ran an hour. I would like to ride the bus from here to Calais, ferry to Dover, and bus to Brighton, to see some of the countries. It would take a week round trip. I will need to set a second anchor to better secure the boat. I need to wash out some clothes and pack the little luggage case with what few clothes I have. I could buy 2 new sets.
Sat, Sept 24
41:11N, 08:42W
Leixoes Harbor, Portugal0645, light N breeze, overcast, drizzle, low 60s. Slept well, woke without aches to pilot boat wake. A lot to do today. Ashore to get new bilge pump. Found one,45, smaller than I would like, but the only one available. Installed it and it pumps well. On the way back I found a packet of excellent cheese alongside the walk, queijo fundido. Had it with crackers for a late breakfast. Removed old caulking around cabin top chain plates and re-caulked with silicone sealant. Forestay chainplates OK. A couple I was docked with in Galway, Sandy and Joan Mill on the Zeferin, came in last night and visited this afternoon for tea. I visited them and we traded some program and had a bite to eat. Cooked the pot of beans, fine eating. Spent the evening fooling with the CMap program and SeaPro. CMap won't run on this computer, and the charts on SeaPro lack detail. Deleted CMap. Shut down at 2330.
Sun, Sept 25
41:11N, 08:42W
Leixoes Harbor, Portugal0700, near calm N breeze, overcast, low 60s. Cruise ship came in at 0645. Slow start. Silicone sealed and oringed the bladder fittings. Placed and connected them. I hope I have finally sealed the fittings. Went over to the Zeferin and the Rich Harvest taking CDs to them. Finished the tank installation. Set the Bruce as the second anchor, then loafed for an hour talking with Phil. He gave me a new pair of jeans that he bought cheap. Dug the travel case out of the port ama and packed it. Cleaned my pipes for the trip, so I can have a good smoke while traveling. All that is left to do is to shower and rinse out the clothes I am wearing, dry them, stow the gear on deck below and lock up. I will leave the dinghy on one of the empty fingers in the marina, sin permiscao??This afternoon's breeze force 3 would be ideal for a lazy sail south. Oh, Well!! The wind kicked up to force 4 gusting 5 at 1800 as I was coming back from the shower. It will dry the clothes I washed out in a hurry! A foot of chop in the harbor. A couple of ships coming and going. Beans again for supper. Put a few gallons of water in the tanks to see if leaking and to make coffee. Engine ran 2 hours while I watched the last of SFRobinson. At sundown the wind picked up more to a constant low force 5. Clothes still damp. I went to bed at 2030. The Phils woke me about 2130 and yelled something that I didn't understand, then took off to the marina. I thought maybe I had dragged, but no. ??? Shortly thereafter the wind let down to 3 gusting 4, and by 2245 was down to force 1 and flat.
Mon, Sept 26
41:11N, 08:42W
Leixoes Harbor, Portugal0645, near calm N breeze, clear, mid 50s. Woke early, slept well. Cold this morning and I have to conserve propane for cooking as I can't get my US tanks refilled here. When I run out I will have to change fittings to European system and tanks. One more thing to eat dollars. I will finish stowing gear this morning, check the bilges, tidy up the cabin a bit, then go ashore to check email and send one to Anne, take a taxi to the InterNorte bus terminal in Porto. I have about 220 cash to make the trip. I can use the card to pay for tickets. Cruise ship leaving and pilot boat wakes at 0730 not as rough as usual. Heavy dew, so clothes drying are damp. The sun is coming up and they should be dry by the time I finish stowing. Finished the beans for breakfast. What Phil yelled was he left some fish chowder on deck that I found this morning. Washed up and shaved. Charged the camera and downloaded photos from Galway harbor. Sandy and Joan on the Zeferin left for Lisbon at 0945. Chargrd the batteries for about 30 minutes. Ashore at 1100 for England. To Porto bus station, bus not until late tomorrow, so to airport. Air Portugal to Heathrow, 140. Airborne at 1650, 2 hour flight. Gooot bus to Brighton, 20 - 30, 2 hours. Used bus driver's phone to call Anne, taxi to Hove, arrived about 2200. Had nice talk, sandwuich and salad. Folded my tent about midnight.
Tue, Sept 27
41:11N, 08:42W
Leixoes Harbor, Portugal
Hove, England0745, overcast here, mid 60s. Woke early, slept well on futon. Anne emailed Jeff Schone that I am here. Anne had a spare 220v adapter cable for my computer charger. Taught her how to strip html from log files so they can be printed easier and quicker. Made a Barefoot's World CD for her and loaded latest log files to the web and checked email. Sent Jeff Schone the corrected spreadsheet. Anne and I walked a few blocks around Hove, had brunch of sausage and eggs and hashbrowns. I worked on her computer most of the day cleaning it of dust and worthless programs. It has Millenium problems. Casey called, we talked for about 20 minutes. We will visit him Friday afternoon.
Wed, Sept 28
41:11N, 08:42W
Leixoes Harbor, Portugal
Hove, England0715, clear here, mid 60s. Slept fairly well, but my bones hurt this morning, slow getting started. Dinked with both computers for an hour until I got enough coffee in me and my bones loosened up. About 1045 Anne and I went for a stroll along the beach promenade toward Brighton and Jeff's office to meet with him at 1600, passed some time in the new library, and met with him. Then we went to Dee's for tea and crumpets and a nice chat. Taxi back to Anne's at 1945, A nice morning, but windy and chill in the afternoon and evening. We watched the film "Piano" while we waited for the "Tarte Tatin" apple pie to heat for ala mode for an evening snack. I really didn't understand the story of the movie, and I don't understand how it won 3 Oscars???
Thur, Sept 29
41:11N, 08:42W
Leixoes Harbor, Portugal
Hove, England0715, mostly clear here, mid 60s. Showered and shaved. Not much will happen today. Lubed noisy fan in Anne's puter. Got an email from Burl Nelson that he has lost his boat and house in hurricane Katrina and would like to sail with me. He would be very welcome as crew. Scheduled to visit Casey tomorrow. Nice afternoon. Anne and I walked to market for dinner fixiin's, 15. On the way I bought a new pipe to replace the bulldog I lost over the side and cleaners, 18, and a pair of deckshoes, 15. Amme gave me a conch shell to make a fog horn bugle. Went to 2000 mtg. at St. Andrews in Hove.
Fri, Sept 30
41:11N, 08:42W
Leixoes Harbor, Portugal
Hove, England0730, overcast and drizzling, mid 60s. Woke Anne at 0745. We walked to the bus stop, rode it to Brighton station to catch the 0917 train to London, missed it, caught the next one, an express, and made it to London Victoria station with just minutes to wait for the next train, having made up the time missing the first train. We made all the connections all day, incredible good fortune. Taxied out to S to visit Casey. He is in excellent spirits and looks great, tanned and gaining weight, having fun with what he is doing and convinced he is on the right path to do the most good. I leave that up to HP as it is not my way to deter a man from what he believes to be right, as long as it is within the bounds of "Harm no one, then do as you please." We left him at 1600, our taxi waiting for us to return to the train station. I enjoyed the view of the countryside, good farm land and soils, quite a bit of open space, although I was not enthused with the views of the London area. I just don't like large cities and the crush of humanity. We arrived back in Brighton about 2000, had a quick dinner, I a hamburger and fries, and Anne a falafel, like a burrito, and bused to the house. My back was aching from the old injury. Checked email, reply from Burl. I crashed, Anne went to the store for pain killer, and rubbed my back with an analgesic, which helped, mostly the rubbing and her gentle hands. I read a few minutes and went to sleep.

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